The French aren't renowned for their organisational skills. Style, yes. Cookery, yes. Joie de vivre, occasionally. But organisation? Call the Germans or the Austrians if you want something to run on time. Or so I used to think. I've just returned from a week in the Rhône Valley attending something called the 'Rhône Wine Discovery', a six-day bash with over 5,000 wines on show in 20 different locations, from Vienne in the north to Nîmes in the south, and the whole thing ran with Prussian precision.
This was the second Discovery and it was a triumph for France's second largest wine region. The appellations that refused to participate last time, such as Gigondas and Chteauneuf-du-Pape came over all co-operative this year. For me, the spirit of the thing was best summed up by the presence of Marcel Guigal, arguably the most famous winemaker in France, happily pouring his wines for hours at a village hall in Condrieu.
After a good to excellent quartet of vintages between 1998 and 2001, the region has a lot to be positive about, although the washout in 2002 was a bit of a downer. That watery hiccup aside, there has never been a better time to drink Rhône wines, especially as the 2001s are hitting retail shelves now. If you want to buy a case, a number of leading independent merchants have just launched Rhône offers, including Lay & Wheeler (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb (020 7234 0385), Berry Brothers (01256 340 123), H&H Bancroft (020 7232 5454) and Laytons (020 7288 8888). In some cases, quantities are small, so hurry, especially if you want to buy some of the stunning Chteauneuf-du-Pape.
By the standards of France's other leading areas (Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne) Rhône wines are still comparatively cheap, especially if you're prepared to venture away from the world-famous 'crus' of Hermitage, Condrieu, Côte Rôtie and Chteauneuf-du-Pape. Rhône wines are generally as easy on the wallet as they are on the palate. My tips include St Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage in the north and Vacquéyras, Gigondas and Costières de Nîmes in the south. There is also a lot of good Côtes du Rhônes and Côtes du Rhône Villages around at the moment, particularly from the villages of Sablet, Séguret, Beaumes de Venise and Cairanne.
I tasted more than 1,500 wines in a week and I can barely remember a poor bottle. My only criticism was the presence of too much new oak in certain over-ambitious wines, but that's only a cavil. Of all the major French regions, the Rhône produces reds that are best suited to modern tastes: more reliable than Burgundy; softer, fruitier and altogether more enjoyable than Bordeaux. It also makes some brilliant, under-appreciated whites.
For the travelling wine lover, the Rhône Valley is a fantastic place to visit, with superb food and stunning landscapes. I always associate the area with happy times. My pulse quickens whenever I first catch sight of the hill of Hermitage with its Hollywood-style signs advertising the appellation's leading names. It's almost as good as a bottle of the wine itself. Almost, but not quite.
Best cellars
Four great 2001s from the Rhône.
2001 Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Les Terres Nobles, Cave de Cairanne (£5.99, selected branches of Tesco.) The Cairanne co-operative is one of the best in the southern Rhône, and in a vintage like 2001 its wines are exceptional value for money. This peppery, chunky, Grenache-dominated blend has a core of succulent strawberry fruit and supple tannins.
2001 Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc, Domaine Chaume-Arnaud (£8.20, Morris & Verdin, 020 7921 5300.) A restrained, subtly oaked blend of Viognier and Marsanne, this is one of the best southern Rhône whites on the market, showing richness and stone-fruit concentration. Who needs white Burgundy when you can buy this at under £10?
2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clos Saint Michel (£10.99, Waitrose). Well priced for a Chteauneuf, this is a fragrant, full-bodied, Grenache-based style with real depth and fruit intensity. The wine is showing well now, but will develop for another three to five years.
2001 Condrieu, Guigal (£19.99, Majestic). Marcel Guigal is better known for his Côte Rôtie reds, but this gently oaked Viognier remains one of my favourites. A rich, creamy white with understated flavours of apricot and peach surfing a wave of refreshing acidity.